Notes & News

The Huron Wristers: a story of connections part 1

The Huron Wristers
The Huron Wristers, inspired by the colourwork in Herbert’s knitted gloves.

The story of the creation of the Huron Wristers is a story of connections: the connection of past to present, of generation to generation.

Back in 1972 Pearl Wheeler donated a pair of knitted gloves that once belonged to her husband Herbert to the Huron County Museum and Historic Gaol. The museum’s record notes that at the time the gloves were thought to date from 1870 and were knit by a man.

Herbert and Pearl lived in Belgrave, Ontario. Herbert had seven siblings, four brothers and three sisters.  His parents were Charles Wheeler and Mary Ann Wilkinson. Herbert was a carpenter and apparently also the local barber. How long the gloves were in Herb’s possession no one knows.

While in visiting the museum researching women’s headcoverings – I had an idea to recreate a head scarf one of my ancestors wore (that’s the lady on the upper left of the home page) – I happened upon an image of Herb’s gloves. There was something very intriguing about the gloves. First, the colours – the pink is very bold and the contrast between the pink and black is quite striking. Secondly, the colourwork pattern – it seems familiar, but yet different somehow. It looks Fair Isle inspired, but there’s something else there. And the fringe of the cuff, so interesting.

Who made these gloves? There’s no record of that. The gloves may have been knitted for Herbert by an older family member; or purchased at some point earlier on and then Herbert inherited them; or Herbert bought the gloves himself from someone; or given his trade, perhaps they were payment for some work he did. It was time to do research on the pattern and see what could be found.

The Colourwork Pattern of the Gloves

  • One of the pair of knitted gloves owned by Herbert Wheeler. Donated by Pearl Wheeler in 1972.
    One of the pair of knitted gloves donated by Pearl Wheeler in 1972 and dated to approximately 1870 (Image used courtesy of the Huron County Museum and Historic Gaol).

Herbert’s gloves were knit in the round using the stranded colourwork technique, working two colours of yarn in the same row, carrying the unused yarn across the inside of the work. The 8-stitch motif repeating pattern is similar to both the Shetland Fair Isle knitting pattern, ‘Little Flowers’ as well as an Estonian pattern called, ‘Cat’s Paw’.

The gloves feature a knitted fringe on a short ribbed cuff. Fringing has been used on both Latvian mittens and Estonian gloves, historical and modern versions and not so much in the Fair Isle tradition. The fringe appears to have been done using a loop technique which is done during the construction of the glove. The colourwork may seem close to the Sanquhar tradition, but it’s not a match for the following reasons according to knitters on the Knitting History Forum:

  • There are quite a few designs associated with Sanquhar. Possibly the most well known ones are based on 11 by 11 stitch squares. The squares have strong outlines with alternating patterns within the squares. Herb’s gloves therefore do not fulfill these criteria.
  • Some Sanquhar gloves also have an interesting finger construction with little triangular gussets in the finger spaces and triangular finger tips. Also, all Sanquhar have a shaped thumb placed on the palm side rather than on the side of the hand as here.
  • Finally, the stitch count, wool and colour are not really in the Sanquhar tradition. Gloves tend to be monochromatic. Wool used is finer, stitch count for the cuff around 80 stitches and modern needle size of around 2mm used.
The Old Hand Knitters of the Dales
The Old Hand-Knitters of the Dales, a book about the knitting traditions of the Dales of England. The glove, with a fringed cuff, is similar in some ways to Herbert’s gloves in the Huron County Museum.

The Knitting History Forum was invaluble as it connected me with Angharad Thomas, researcher, designer and knitter. Angharad wrote, “The only pattern I could find similar to that used in these gloves was a 4 stitch x 4 row triangle in a Shetland pattern book … but there’s a limit to what can be knitted on a given number of sts in whatever colours are to hand. That’s how I think these patterns came about rather than from one tradition or another. Fringes are now associated with Latvia but there are gloves from the north of England with a fringe…” Angharad then suggested I reach out to Shirley Scott, Canadian knitting designer.

Shirley Scott, knitting designer and author

Shirley Scott, knitting designer and author, immediately suggested the similarity to Estonian mitten patterns and sent a few images of pattern motifs. She then pointed me in the direction of Nancy Bush, an Estonian knitting expert. Shirley also cautioned that there may be no clear and definitive answer as to the pattern name and origins.

Don’t be surprised if the pattern has no real name. Newfoundland patterns have never had names, for example. We made ours up, as explained in our books. It’s also hard to pinpoint the origins of patterns these days because North America has had so many waves of immigration and so much pattern sharing.

Shirley A. Scott, knitting designer, author of Canada Knits; Saltwater Mittens; Saltwater Classics

Nancy Bush, Estonian knitting expert

Nancy Bush a knitting writer, designer and authority on Estonian knitting, wrote:

“I have found a pattern close to the one on your mittens from both Paistu and Helme parishes in Estonia (these are southwest). The difference is that the diamond with cross shapes are offset, as is the example of Sander’s Mittens in Folk Knitting in Estonia. There is another pattern that is like the ones from Helme and Paistu in a pattern book from the Rannarootsi Museum in Haapsalu. This museum tells the story of Swedish/Estonian people who lived in Estonian territory, mostly until the 2nd WW. I don’t know the story of these exact mittens, just that the pattern is close.

The fact that the diamond with cross shapes are stacked instead of offset makes me think they were not looking at any of the patterns I have mentioned above, or mittens made like them…

All that being said… this is a very simple pattern, easy to create with knit stitches and could have originated almost anywhere… it is very possible these mittens were made by someone who was remembering a pattern they knew as a child, for instance, and reproduced it as best they could, with the yarn they had…”

So, which was it, Estonian or Fair Isle? It was time to research the Wheeler family and Herbert. Where did their family originate? Was there a family tie to either Estonia or the British Isles? When an instagram post by Best Dishes, a Goderich business owned by Sarah Anderson, appeared in my feed one day identifying the wristers pattern as based on a family heirloom, chance had dropped the opportunity in my lap. It was time to connect. A couple messages back and forth and the story unfolded…

See part 2 of the Huron Wristers: A Story of Connections

Resources

  • Upcoming workshop: On March 25, the Huron County Museum and Historic Gaol is hosting a Huron Wristers Virtual Knitting Workshop. If you’d like to find out more or attend, please click here!
  • Huron Wristers Knitting Kit: If you’d like to knit a pair of Huron Wristers for yourself, please go to the FACTS website to purchase a kit.
  • Alternatively, if you’d like to work with the colourwork pattern and stitch some history with your own yarn, here is a chart to get you started! The chart could probably also be used for cross-stitching or rughooking and I’d love to see how that would turn out.
  • Contact me with any questions or comments at any time with an email to sbolen@stitchrevivalstudio.ca 
  • Stitch Revival Studio on YouTube: Looking for a how-to on how to knit the gloves? I’ve just created a YouTube channel and will be uploading a series of Huron Wristers knitting how-to’s.

Thank you for reading!

 

Exploring historic textiles in our local museums

I enjoy reading about and researching historic textiles. For me, these vintage textiles provide a invaluable, tangible link to our past.  And as I work at reproducing old knitting patterns and recreating vintage knitted items, I find that the local museums hold a wealth of reference material in their textile collections, providing wonderful period pieces to help with pattern identification and reproduction.

Recently I enjoyed the privilege of seeing (virtually, of course) textile items from the collection of the Bruce County Museum and Cultural Centre. I saw many wonderful, beautiful items, some knit, others crocheted, some embroidered, others sewn and so on. From knitted coverlets and clothing, cross stitch samplers, to crochet bedspreads and hair receivers — yes, hair receivers — to beaded purses and to knitting tools, the collection is extensive and varied.

The Grey-Bruce Boomers have included my article, A Link to Our Past – Exploring Historic Textiles in our Local Museums in their Winter 2020-2021 edition. The article features a number of the lovely textile items from the Bruce County Museum.

My personal favourites are always the ‘counterpanes’, the knitted and crocheted white bed coverlets and blankets that were once so popular in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Have a look through the images accompanying the article.

If you’d like to have a read, please click here! The story is on page 22. Visit www.greybruceboomers.com to read the magazines in its entirety and sign up to receive updates when new issues are available.

Whether you’re a needle worker or not, there’s much to see and enjoy in the textile collection of the Bruce County Museum. There are such interesting stories connected to many of the items; it’s a truly fascinating experience. If you  would like to know more about the Bruce County Museum and its textile collection, visit www.brucemuseum.ca or call Laura Leonard at (519) 797-2080, or email museum@brucecounty.on.ca. The museum is located at 33 Victoria St. N., Southampton. Given the COVID-19 pandemic, virtual visits are a necessity at this time. Please go to https://brucemuseum.pastperfectonline.com/ to have a look through their online collection.


Grey-Bruce Boomers

Read online at: www.greybruceboomers.com and ‘Like’ on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/greybruceboomers/
They also have 2 sister publications – www.greybrucekids.com and www.huronperthboomers.com

Huron Wristers and the Colours of Huron

The Blyth History Stitcher is at it again… naturally dyed palette created by FACTS and beautiful wool from Steele Wool Farm, this is definitely a creative fibre collaboration; it’s time for an update on the Huron Wristers.

The Huron Wristers Kits are now in production, with the coloured yarn being weighed and divided.

The worsted weight wool is from Steele Wool Farm, a Blyth-area fibre producer owned by Margaret Steele. Naturally sourced local dyes, provided by FACTS Blyth, were used to create the palette of the ‘Colours of Huron’.

Each kit will have enough wool to knit a pair of medium/large fingerless mitts and will consist of one ball of natural wool (220 yards) and two smaller balls (35 yards each) of naturally dyed wool. The colours will vary per kit as to showcase the wonderful palette that is Huron County.

Featuring a simple cast-off thumb open and 2x ribbed cuffs, these wristers are perfect for keeping your hands warm and your fingers free. Suitable for experienced knitters.

Inspired by a pair vintage knitted gloves in the collection of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol, the mitts feature a recreation of the gloves’ colourwork design. The colourwork motifs are similar to both the Shetland Fair Isle pattern, ‘Little Flowers’ as well as the Estonian pattern, ‘Cat’s Paw’. The original gloves feature a fringed cuff, also hinting at an Estonian inspiration.

These fingerless wool mittens are great for someone needing a bit of warmth and to keep their fingers free for various tasks around the farm, office or studio.

Dress of Many Patterns – lace pattern #1

image of knitted lace sample swatch
Knitted lace sample swatch, Dress Lace Pattern #1, using Cascade Yarns, Heritage wool and silk blend on size 3mm needles.

I thought it was time to write an update on the Dress of Many Patterns and share my own lace sampler swatch in progress.

The first row of the eight-row repeat staggers the diagonal of eyelets formed; the pattern is worked in multiples of five stitches and an eight-row repeat. The stitch count remains the same – five stitches per repeat – for each repeat of the pattern throughout.

If you’re interesting in trying it yourself, the pattern is below.

Gauge: one 5-st repeat and 8 rows = 3/4 inch wide and 1/2 inch tall.

Dress of Many Patterns – Lace Pattern #1

Using Heritage Silk from Cascade Yarns, CO a multiple of 5 stitches. The swatch in the photograph uses 50 stitches.

Row 1 (RS): *YO, k3, k2tog; rep from * to end

Row 2 (WS): P.

Row 3: *K1, yo, k2, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Row 4: P.

Row 5: *K2, yo, k1, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Row 6: P.

Row 7: *K3, yo, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Row 8: P.

Rep rows 1 to 8.

Online collection of Victorian knitting manuals

If you are like me and love to look through vintage knitting and crochet patterns, I just recently stumbled upon an online resource that you might enjoy. The Knitting Reference Library of the University of Southampton includes the published works collected by Montse Stanley, Richard Rutt and Jane Waller. These comprise books, exhibition catalogues, knitting patterns, journals and magazines.

The Victorian knitting manuals donated by Richard Rutt have been digitized and can be viewed online for free. You can search through the extensive collection here! Exciting stuff for pattern researchers!

Researching vintage colourwork

Draft pattern for a pattern in development, the Huron Wristers. Images of the original knitted glove in the collection of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol are on the left and right of the wrister image.

I’ve been doing some research on colourwork patterns and knitting histories and traditions as part of the development of a new pattern, the Huron Wristers.

The wristers pattern is based on a pair of lovely knitted gloves in the collection of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol located in Goderich, Ontario.

The museum’s gloves are approximately 100 years old, are knit with wool and are large enough to fit a man’s hands.

knitted glove
Close-up of knitted glove from the collection of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol. Photo used here courtesy of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol.

The pattern is somewhat similar to Sanquhar and Fair Isle colourwork traditions.

I went through many a pattern book and magazine, looking for where the pattern may have originated.

I’ve come to think that the knitter (said to have been a man in the museum’s notes), may have incorporated features that he liked into these gloves, perhaps not following one certain pattern but rather combining different elements into one.

I took my questions to the Knitting History Forum group and I got some interesting leads. If you are researching old patterns, I suggest you become a member… it’s free to join and it’s a great way to connect with others interesting in discussing knitting history.

Here’s what I learned:

The gloves feature a knitted fringe on a short ribbed cuff. I asked about this tradition and where it comes from. One of the members informed me that fringing has been used on both Latvian mittens and Estonian gloves, historical and modern versions.

The colourwork is close to Fair Isle, with only two colours being used in each row.

One member, named Sue, I’ll quote in full because she provided such a wealth of information:

“I have knitted a few Sanquhar patterns based on patterns produced by the Scottish Women’s Rural Institute which are assumed to be reasonably faithful to the tradition. These patterns were written in the mid 20th century, although the tradition is older.

My thoughts are that the design here is nearer Shetland ‘little flowers’ (peerie flooers) and not really in the Sanquhar tradition for the following reasons.

There are quite a few designs associated with Sanquhar. Possibly the most well known ones are based on 11 by 11 stitch squares. The squares have strong outlines with alternating patterns within the squares. Your example therefore does not fulfill these criteria in my opinion.

Some Sanquhar gloves also have an interesting finger construction with little triangular gussets in the finger spaces and triangular finger tips. Also, all the Sanquhar I have made have a shaped thumb placed on the palm side rather than on the side of the hand as here.

Finally, the stitch count, wool and colour are not really in the Sanquhar tradition. Gloves tend to be monochromatic. Wool used is finer, stitch count for the cuff around 80 stitches and modern needle size of around 2mm used.

I recommend you dip into the Sanquhar group on Ravelry if you are interested in learning more…”

Another group member, Angharad, replied to my question. Her response is below:

“The only pattern I could find similar to that used in these gloves was a 4 stitch x 4 row triangle in a Shetland pattern book … but there’s a limit to what can be knitted on a given number of sts in whatever colours are to hand. That’s how I think these patterns came about rather than from one tradition or another. Fringes are now associated with Latvia but there are 1846 (?) gloves from the north of England with a fringe and also at least two known pairs of liturgical gloves with a fringe.”

Check out these links

  • Traditional Sanquhar knitting charts… click here!
  • Kate Davies, Peerie Floors… click here!
  • Hazel Tindall, Authentic Fair Isle Patterns… click here!
  • Hazel Tindall; ‘Colourful Fair Isle’ image similar to the glove pattern… click here!
  • Dr. Angharad Thomas, knitting researcher & designer… click here

The Huron Wristers draft pattern

The Huron Wristers draft pattern is now at the test stitching phase. If you’d like to give it a go, I’d welcome the input. Just send me an email to sbolen@stitchrevivalstudio.ca and I’ll send the pattern your way.

I do have plans to do a full reproduction of the knitted gloves for the near future. Please stay tuned for updates on that venture.

Knitting History Forum AGM and Conference 2020

Exciting news for those into knitting history!

The Knitting History Forum has decided to stage their AGM and Conference as an online event on Sat., Nov. 7, 2020. This event will be free to attend and open to all, following registration, and will comprise speakers, discussion groups/show and tell and opportunities for research students to give short presentations or present posters online of their current work-in-progress.

For more info please see: http://knittinghistory.co.uk/ 

The Knitting History Forum is an international society, open to anyone with an interest in the history of knitting and crochet.

Their website has more info on the latest in knitting history news and forthcoming events, and as well as a resources section with further information, suggested reading, and links to other relevant websites and organizations.

Huron Wristers – an update

Image of vintage knitted glove from the collection of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol. Photo used with permission of the museum.
Vintage knitted glove from the collection of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol. Photo used with permission of the museum.

I was working at finalizing & editing my pattern for the Huron Wristers, a pair of fingerless gloves. Gotta get it ready for a test stitcher or two. Wool is from Steele Wool Farm . Colourwork is based on a pair of knitted gloves in the collection of Huron County Museum.

Huron Wristers

Greetings & a happy December!

Here’s a sneak peek at the new wrister pattern in test stitching stage; the wool is from Steele Wool Farm. The colour-work portion is inspired by the fair isle pattern of vintage knit gloves in the collection of the Huron County Museum.

Once the pattern is finalized, a kit will be available for purchase. Stay tuned as this idea is under development!

New wristers pattern underway

So November is here and there’s snow arriving in Huron County. It’s time to return to mitten knitting.

It’s been years since I’ve made mittens; about 20 in fact. But, I’ve been thinking about a history-inspired stranded mitten pattern and I can’t get the colour-work idea out of my mind.

The fair isle portion (see next post) that I plan on doing is a reproduction of the colourwork pattern of a pair of heirloom knitted gloves in the collection of the Huron County Museum and Historic Gaol located in Goderich, Ontario.

Happy Stitching!