Notes & News

Heirloom museum textiles

In past centuries, women crafted heirloom needlework and textiles that were practical and beautiful, combining function with artistic expression. These beautiful household textiles from the 19th Century are today rare, yet the Huron County Museum and Historic Gaol, in Goderich, is fortunate to feature many pieces, including two counterpanes (one knitted, the other crocheted), a knitted bureau scarf, a crocheted antimacassar, and an embroidered linen shopping bag.

  • a portion of the counterpane baby blanket
    The historic original, the inspiration for the pincushion, a portion of the counterpane baby blanket showing the corner area. (Photo courtesy of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol)
  • heirloom counterpane dresser scarf
    The inspiration. This photo shows the upper-left corner of the original heirloom knit counterpane bureau scarf in the collection of the Huron County Museum and Historic Gaol. (Photo courtesy of the Huron County Museum and Historic Gaol)

White cotton counterpanes (or coverlets) were common in the 19th Century, as was ‘white knitting,’ because of the ready availability of cotton yarn. The museum has some fine examples of traditional, heirloom-quality
counterpanes. According to Merriam-Webster, the word ‘counterpane’ comes from the Middle English countrepointe, which literally means embroidered quilt.

The first known use of the name appears in the 15th Century, and it is synonymous with bed covering, bedspread, coverlet, and spread. Counterpanes are usually made up of smaller units (squares or octagons, for example) that are worked separately and then joined together to create an overall design or effect. They traditionally were knitted or crocheted in white or cream-colored cotton yarn. Patterns were numerous and could be quite intricate.

Knitted around 1812, and donated to the Museum in 1958, the white cotton crib counterpane in the collection is a simple design. The blanket was constructed of 3-inch square units joined together, forming an overall ‘On Point’ pattern; the eyelet spaces create the optical illusion of nested diamonds. Each unit is worked from one corner to the opposite corner, with garter stitch in the lower half of the unit, a row of eyelets through the middle, and alternating stockinette-stitch and reverse stockinette- stitch ribbing above. The garter-stitch rows feature a yarn over increase on each end. It appears that at least two different hands stitched the squares together, as some seam stitches are small and neat, others are larger and rougher.

The crocheted counterpane was made about 1905 and donated to the museum in 1965. Crocheted in the round into individual squares that were then connected by crocheting each motif to the other, the counterpane features a Diamond Embossed Bobble central pattern in each of the squares. This pattern is similar to one called the Star Popcorn bedspread.

Each square was crocheted individually, and then all were joined together. The bedspread is five motifs wide and six long. Each square motif measures 12 x 12 inches. The crochet edging runs the perimeter of the spread, each scallop along the edge is five inches long. The knitted, cream-coloured cotton counterpane bureau scarf, slightly yellowed with age, dates from 1890 and was donated in 1978.

The scarf features four counterpane squares set above a panel of embossed leaves; the edging is a sawtooth pattern. The four units of the square were worked as separate triangular sections, and then crocheted together. The embossed panel with raised central leaves, lines of eyelet, and a border of leaves is a typical pattern of the period. The squares each measure 12 x 12 inches. The leaf panel is eight inches high. This scarf may have been knitted originally as a sampler.

The antimacassar doily was crocheted in 1880 by six-year-old Ann Rath of East Wawanosh Township near Belgrave. Rectangular with a knotted fringe, the doily measures 24” x 15” and was worked with cotton crochet thread. The pattern is made up of motif strips joined together by a chain. The item was donated to the museum in 1960.

In the 19th Century, antimacassars – also known as ‘tidy chair backs’ – were quite common. These small cloths were placed over the back of a chair or sofa to protect the upholstery from Macassar oil, which was used by men in the Victorian and Edwardian eras as a hair conditioner to groom and style. Macassar was often made by combining coconut oil or palm oil with other fragrant oils.

The embroidered shopping bag is made of beige linen with the embroidered initials ‘MBF’ on the front of the bag. The two handles lie horizontally along either side of the opening, near the line of buttons. Brown braid trim and tapestry wool embroidery in yellow, taupe, brown, and green accent the bag. Some of the components of the bag appear to be machine stitched, such as the trim and the button holes. The item is dated circa 1850 and was part of the original collection belonging to Joseph Herbert Neill, founder of the Huron County Museum in Goderich.

The Museum holds many intriguing examples of heirloom needlework and textiles. The museum, located on the east coast of Lake Huron, has an interesting story. The original collection was gathered together by Mr. Neill (1884-1969), a collector and amateur historian.

He sold his personal collection of historical items to Huron County in 1948, and, in 1951, the Huron County Museum was opened with him as the curator. The five items described are but a small sampling of the wealth of historic textiles held in the Huron County Museum’s collection. Since these items were part of the early collection, for which minimal information was gathered, little is known about them.

Although the makers are gone, they still have the power of expression through their needlework, which leaves a tangible memory of their lives in Huron County.

– This article first appeared in the Spring 2019 issue of the Huron-Perth Boomers.

History of Tomato Pin Cushions

Metal pins are an invaluable tool for today’s needleworker and seamstress, and they were no less so for sewers throughout history. With pins came a variety of ways to store them, including boxes, cases and cushions.

15th-Century Debut

The first reference to the tomato pin cushion appears in the 15th century. Before this, as metal pins were rare and expensive, they were stored in a variety of protective cases made of bone, ivory or silver.

Tudor era

During the Tudor Era (1485-1603) it became common practice to use fancy, stuffed shapes to store needles and pins. The familiar tomato shape evolved due to the folklore surrounding the fruit, which symbolized prosperity and repelled evil spirits.

A Sign of Prosperity

A custom evolved whereby ripe tomatoes were placed on a mantel to ensure future prosperity. As real tomatoes were not always available, people created fabric tomatoes stuffed with sand or sawdust. Eventually, the stuffed, decorative tomatoes were used as pin cushions.

Victorian Era

The stuffed tomato pin cushion was further popularized in the Victorian Era. As parlor rooms became more opulent, the lady of the house displayed collections of pin cushions in various shapes (fans, dolls, shoes, fruits and vegetables), taking pride in their number and variety. The tomato pin cushion became a familiar presence.

Present Day

The most familiar pin cushion today is the red tomato. The strawberry tassel attached to the pin cushion is filled with emery and serves to clean and sharpen needles and pins.

Resources

A dress of many patterns

Hi, everyone!

Today on the blog it’s all about a dress recreation project: a dress of many patterns.

I’ve spoken about the idea of recreating a vintage, Edwardian-styled dress from the collection of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol. The plan is to recreate the basic pattern of a tea dress using swatches of recreated needlework items. So, it’s a reproduction on two levels: design & construction.

wedding dress dated from 1911
Heirloom 1912 wedding dress and shawl worn by Francis Mason Watson of Blyth in 1912. (Photo used courtesy of the Huron County Museum.)

The dress design will be based on an Edwardian Tea Dress-style wedding dress originally worn by Francis Mason Watson (1890 – 1918) a former resident of Blyth, Ontario. The shawl and dress will be made up of vintage pattern samplers (swatches) based on textile items in the Huron County Museum. Stitchers of all levels and techniques are welcome, beginner to advanced.

The needlework techniques used in the swatches will depend on the skills of the volunteers that take part. If there are tatting experts, for example, tatting reproduction swatches could be worked up and incorporated into the dress.

A visit with 1911 vintage

IA while ago, I enjoyed a visit to the museum and getting a look at the 1911 wedding dress in person. The simply lovely cream-coloured wedding dress dates from 1911. It’s even more beautiful in person – the images give just a hint of its charm. And so you can get a look too, here’s a collection of images of the dress…

wedding dress dated from 1911

The dress’s construction is simple, consisting of basic shapes (rectangles, triangles, and squares) and so would lend itself to a swatch contruction. Portions of the dress have a lovely silky sheen; I can imagine those portions would be lovely knitted or crocheted using a fibre with a sheen to it. Other portions of the dress are matte and would lend themselves to recreation using another fibre, perhaps a fine wool blend.

Let’s stitch some history

Would you be interested in joining in this creative reconstruction project? Needle workers & stitchers of all technique and skill level are welcome to join.  The museum has a wealth of vintage textile items (such as knitting, quilting, crochet, embroidery) and you are sure to see a stitched item that would inspire you.

I’ve put together a number of the images of needlework textiles items from their collection. I’ve tried to include examples of crochet, knit, tatting, lace, and embroidery. There are many more textiles in the museum. Have a look at these examples…

heirloom counterpane dresser scarfa portion of the counterpane baby blanketTidy Chair Back Pattern

Next steps

What do you think? Want to join us and stitch a sampler? The pattern you recreate or create (if you are inspired to make your own version) would then be published as part of a collection, Stitching Our History – a Collection of Needlework Patterns from the Huron County Museum.

Contact me by email or sign-up for my newsletter if you’d like to get involved or get regular updates on this project.

Please note all photos are courtesy of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol and are used with permission. Thank you to Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol for their support.

Vintage textiles on display

A small number of the Huron County Museum‘s many beautiful heirloom textiles were on display in the Governor’s House adjacent to the historic Gaol for Sunday’s counterpane knitting workshop in the parlour.

Starting from the left in the photos, you can see a counterpane crib blanket, a counterpane bureau scarf, a pair of knit men’s gloves (the pattern is similar to Sanquhar), and a crocheted counterpane bed coverlet.

There are so many more lovely items in their collection. These are but a few examples.

Would you or someone you know be interested in recreating patterns based on the heirloom textile items in the museum? Their collection holds many, many needlework items such as quilts, doll cloths, doilies, dresses, mittens and embroidered textiles.

And by the way, 2019 is going to be an exciting year for textile lovers – the museum has something very special in the works!

Thank you!

thank youThank you so much to everyone who attended the knitting workshop at the Gaol in the Goderich yesterday, Sunday, Dec. 9.

It was truly a pleasure to have the opportunity to meet you and share some creative time together.

And thank you also to Sinead and the Huron County Museum for encouraging me to share my work and for organizing and hosting the workshop in the wonderful Governor’s House.

Thank you, all!

Tidy Chair Back Doily

Tidy Chair Back Pattern
Tidy Chair Back doily, designed and crocheted by Irene Kellins of Blyth, Ontario.

— Guest post by designer Irene Kellins —

Recreating the Tidy Chair Back has been a most interesting and enjoyable adventure. Beginning as a chat about the historical needlework collection at the Huron County Museum and Historic Gaol, in Goderich, Ontario, Canada, the project evolved into recreating one of these works—specifically, the Tidy Chair Back, made in 1880 by six-year-old Ann Rath of East Wawanosh Township, near Belgrave, Ontario.

The original was completed with fine crochet cotton and consists of a motif strip joined by a chain. After comparing test swatches to the original, I recreated the doily using size 20 cotton thread and a size 7 (1.5 mm) steel crochet hook.

While working on this piece, I couldn’t help imagining the life and circumstances of the little girl who created the original. I am impressed by the quality of her work and the fact that it has endured for so long. I am also impressed by how simple the pattern actually is, when broken down to the basic components: a strip of pattern and a joining. These two simple steps lend themselves to a wide variety of other projects.

One could create a simple choker, a cowl, an afghan, or a jacket. The possibilities are endless. As a result of this crocheting adventure, I have developed an interest in exploring other samples of needlework from long ago, looking to the past to create for the future.

The pattern is available for purchase at Stitches With a Twist in Blyth or download your free copy here: Stitch Revival Tidy Chair Back Pattern.

 

Counterpane Pincushion, inspired by history

A counterpane pincushion, inspired by the pattern of an heirloom counterpane baby blanket in the collection of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol
A counterpane pincushion, inspired by an heirloom counterpane baby blanket in the collection of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol located in Goderich, Ontario.

Do you love stitching from old patterns?

I certainly do. I also enjoy trying to recreate a pattern based upon a stitched item.

This pincushion is inspired by a white cotton counterpane baby blanket in the collection of the Huron County Museum and Historic Gaol in Goderich, Ontario.

White cotton counterpanes (or coverlets) were common in the nineteenth century, as was “white knitting,” due to the preference at the time for white bed coverings and because of the ready availability of cotton yarn.

Counterpanes are made up of smaller units (squares or octagons, for example) that are worked separately and then joined together to create an overall design or effect. They were traditionally knitted or crocheted in white or cream-colored cotton yarn. Patterns were numerous and could be quite intricate.

 a portion of the counterpane baby blanket
The heirloom original, the inspiration for the pincushion. A portion of the folded counterpane baby blanket can been seen in the photo. (Photo courtesy of the Huron County Museum & Historic Gaol)

Knitted about 1812, the white cotton counterpane in the museum’s collection is of a simple and lovely design. The blanket was constructed of 3-inch (7.6-cm) square units joined together, forming an overall On Point pattern: the eyelet spaces create the optical illusion of nested diamonds. Each unit is worked from one corner to the opposite corner, with garter stitch in the lower half of the unit, a row of eyelets through the middle, and alternating stockinette-stitch and reverse-stockinette-stitch ribbing above. The garter-stitch rows feature a yarn-over increase at the beginning of each row.

The front of the pincushion features the same overall layout as the museum’s crib blanket. On the reverse of the pincushion, the units are placed so that the yarn-over edges connect to highlight the lovely lace-like effect created when the yarn-overs are joined by a simple whip stitch. The knitted edging is a recreation of the original edging on the crib counterpane.

PINCUSHION INSTRUCTIONS

Pincushion Units

Make 8
CO 2 sts.
Next Row: Yo, k to end—1 st inc’d.
Rep last row 33 more times—36 sts.
P 1 row.
Eyelet Row (RS): K1, [yo, k2tog] 17 times, k1.
P 1 row.
K 1 row.
*Next Row (WS): K1, k2tog, k to end—1 st dec’d.
Next Row (RS): P1, p2tog, p to end—1 st dec’d.
Rep last 2 rows once more—2 sts dec’d.
Next Row (WS): P1, p2tog, p to end—1 st dec’d.
Next Row (RS): K1, k2tog, k to end—1 st dec’d.
Rep last 2 rows once more—2 sts dec’d.
Rep from * 3 more times—4 sts rem.
Next Row (WS): K1, k2tog, k to end—3 sts rem.
Next Row (RS): P1, p2tog, p to end—2 sts rem.
Next Row: K2tog—1 st rem. Fasten off.

EDGING

CO 13 sts
Row 1: K2, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, k1 [yo, k2] 2 times—15 sts.
Row 2: K8, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, k1.
Row 3: K2, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, k7.
Row 4: K8, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, k1.
Row 5: K2, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, k3 [yo, k2] 2 times—17 sts.
Row 6: K10, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, k1.
Row 7: K2, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, k9.
Row 8: BO 4 sts, k6 (including st rem on right needle after BO), [yo, k2tog] 3 times, k1—13 sts rem.
Rep Rows 1–8 until piece measures 25 inches (63.5 cm), ending with Row 8. BO all sts.

FINISHING

Wash all pieces and dry flat to block. For the front of the pin cushion, arrange four units so the ribbing sections align, and sew together using whip stitch. For the back, arrange four units so the yarn-over sides align, and sew together using whip stitch. Weave in ends. Sew front and back pieces together, leaving one side open for stuffing. Fold felted batting in half, fill to desired thickness with fiberfill stuffing, put into pincushion, and sew last side closed. Sew on edging using whip stitch. Sew ends of edging together.

ABBREVIATIONS

BO bind off
CO cast on
DEC decrease
K knit
K2tog knit two stitches together
P purl
P2tog purl two stitches together
RS right side
WS wrong side
YO yarn over

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

6 inches (15.2 cm) square, excluding edging.

YARN

The sample was stitched with DMC Baroque, 100% cotton thread, bedspread weight, 416 yards (380.4 m)/75 gram (2.6 oz) skein, 3 skeins of White.

NEEDLES

Needles size 0 (2 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

GAUGE

36 sts and 72 rows = 4 inches (10.2 cm) in garter st; one unit = 3 inches (7.6 cm) square.

NOTIONS

Tapestry needle
Warm and Natural Felted batting, 6 x 12 inches (15.2 x 30.5 cm)
Warm & Natural Needled Cotton, the Warm Company
Small amount of fiberfill stuffing.

 

Visit the Patterns Page for pattern downloads.